Norway 2018

The fish market in Bergen

 10th. June to Bergen.  32,5 NM  fair sailing. 4,5 hrs

Fine sailing conditions most of the trip brought us to Bergen at 4 om. We noticed that the long period of warm sunny weather was over.

We’re back to normal Norwegian summer temperatures.

We moored up in Vågen and take a pause for a few days while Norma visits Kongsberg.

We can’t remember any summer or cruise as great as the last few weeks.

We now look forward to the next lap starting on Wednesday.

Path to the top made by Sherpa folk from Nepal

 8th. June to Bekkjarvik from Rosendal.  31,5 NM, 4 hours  motor, no wind

Another fine journey in beautiful weather.

Took a stroll into the villige from the new harbour where we berthed. The larder needed a fillup.

A new park has been made near the centre,up a hill near the harbour, a great piece of design and handwork. A new path up to Kongskleiva is now being paved by Sherpas from Nepal. This is a fenomenal project to help people in Nepal economically and to  encourage boat people and other to take a hike to keep fit.

We enjoyed a delicious dinner at Bekkjarvik Gjestgiveri, renowned for many years.

We spent another day relaxing in the sun before sailing to Bergen.

The first part of our cruise has been unbelievable weather wise, with many new experiences and meeting new friends.

The view AS you walk up to the Barony

 7th. June from Nordheimsund to Rosendal  4,5 hours, 30nm

Our journey out of Hardanger fjord continues, the sea is warmer and tempts a short dip now and then.

We were at Rosendal 3 years ago in contrary wind and had to change harbour to Uskedal. No need for this year though, the sea is as calm as it can be.  The nature around us is indescribable with mountains all around, Fonnafond, a large glacier, rivers with falls, forestland and fish farms, the latter not so scenic but necessary for the country’s economy.

A walk to the Barony and a visit to the art gallery are a must. Håkon Blegen paintings from World War 1 were exhibited. The rose garden had no blooming flowers yet though.


Behind the waterfall at Steinsdalen
Nordheimsund floating marina
Craftsman at work
Steindals fossen, Nordheimsund

6th June. from Onarheim to Nordheimsund  39,5 no , 5 hours

Nordheimsund has an original marina, with buildings and pontoons floating after having been towed from Tvedestrand 20 years ago. An eager group were busy preparing for the 20th . wooden boat festival next week.

We had chat with Gunvor Storaas father. Gunvor is the girl we were impressed with in Lerwick 3 years ago and who sailed Kontiki 2 over to Easter Island later the same year. We visited the Hardanger Fartøy museum and had a 7 km walk to Steindals waterfall. Quite an experience being alle to walk behind falling water.

Onarhamn, by Alsaker fjordbruk

 5th. June  Leirvik to Onarhamn i Hardangerfjord 18nm

Good sailing breeze to begin with, increasing in strength up to 10 m/s as we sail into Hardanger fjord towards a new marina at Onarheim. It was given, along with a community centre to the local people from the owner of Alsaker Fjordbruk. Everything was luksurious in quality, fit for a relatively rich owner.

We learned about ramsløk found here, where to pick it and how to use it as a sort of pesto. Holly grew wild there too. Alsaker Fjordbruk is building a new production plant on shore for small salmon, quite a noisy business all day.

 4. June At Leirvik

Over 20 degrees, and we sometimes wonder how long this heatwave will last. At Tromsø in northern Norway our friends are having rain and snow on deck. We are in no hurry to sail so far! One Interesting person we met was an inventor of a hydraulic driven system for cleaning fish farms.  Leirvik is less inviting, scenic wise, than many of the other harbours we have moored in so far. Too many shopping centres leaving little of the older timber buildings. The harbour has plenty guest moorings, ferry boats and larger cargo ships. One of those was loaded with 6 large cabin cruisers transporting them to some far away place.

 3. June. Espevær to Leirvik on Stord 25,4 NM via Sagvåg

We sailed first to Sagvåg which looked attraktive from the Harbour guide, but was disappointing, crowded with lots of small jetties and boats. We sailed on to Leirvik on the Southern tip of Stord. Stord is renowned for its flourishing cultural and sports life. The view on the way here was fantastic with glaciers in the mountains Island and sunshine and calm at sea.

Leirvik nature is rich and varied. There is even  a wild holly forrest nearby.

 2. June  fra Utsira to Espevær 21,7 NM. Fine sailing breeze

Light breeze and warm weather tempts us to continue sailing offshore, this time to Espevær, a distance of only twenty one nautical miles, We had no need for our motor, the wind being favourable.  cluster of Islands has a rugged remarkable nature separated by narrow chanels. Not easy to find a berth though as so many of the houses had private piers.  Towards the end of the 19th century Espevær was one of the most important fishing communities on the west coast. 20-30 000 people could be on the Islands in contrast to 170 inhabitants today.


Examination of the Norwegian lobsters

1 st. June  Skudeneshavn to Utsira 16,5 NM

Siller Lass has never moored up at Utsira, mostly due to hard weather, so we moored up there today.  We met only one other ship on the way, Captain Buchardt from Poland. We fished en route and caught 3 fine mackerel, great for dinner. Mooring up was easy, no other visiting boats. We chattet with a fellow and soon learned that fresh Norwegian lobsters were waiting for us in the 

local store. What a delicious lunch!

Utsira is Norway’s smallest  community with around 200 inhabitants including about 8 refugees. It is a charming place to spend a day or two with plenty of activities, hiking, cyckling , geocaching, paddling etc.

 31st May Kvitsøy to Skudeneshavn  7,5 NM

A really short trip in hot weather. We are amazed that the heat wave continues. No one can remember anything like it. The sea water temperature makes bathing more pleasant, though the harbour at Skudeneshavn doesn’t tempt us.

The harbour town is quaint and picturesque with nearly all the buildings kept in the old style and painted white. It’s a fine place to stock up food, not far to carry back to the quay.

Who knows the name of these wild bell flowers?

 28th. May to Egersund  from Farsund  38 NM

We sailed out at 6 am in threatning rain and thunder. Rounded Lista lighthouse at 7:50 into calmer seas due to change of direction. The trip was a miksture of sailing and motorsailing according to the wind conditions and we had 2 knots current favouring, giving us over 9 knots speed at times. Josin with solo sailor John aboard was already moored up in Egersund, having sailed nonstop from Lillesand, 18 hours. Sunny weather, good company in Egersund.

29 th. May to Kvitsøy  55 NM 8 hour trip.

We filled diesel as we left Egersund, and slowly motored northwards through the Inner beautiful chanel to the open sea. 

Kvitsøy is collection of small Islands just North of Stavanger and a fascinating place to spend a day or two. This has been a fishing community, earlier renowned for its lobsters. There is even a lobster museum here which we visited many years ago. Most of the houses have been renovated by the owners or sold to the wealthier folk of the oil age. Nearly all are kept in the same style, painted white making a great impression around the coast.

The Inland is similar to Scotland with roaming grassland an hills and lots of grazing sheep, dry stand dyrkes separating one farm from another Plenty of luscious grass now.

30th. May.  Our friends on Ingrid left for Utsira in little or no wind. We spent a lazy day in the Caribbean sunshine after having a hike in the hills. Two new boats sailing boats arrived with pupils from differensiert countries and the visitors got a great impression of Norwegian nature and weather.

Later in the day two Hallberg Rassy boats came in, TESS, 48 ft. from Stockholm on its way to Lofoten, later SILVANA HR 40 ft.  Sandnes. We got lots of good tips for moorings over a gin and tonic in the evening.

Ingrid i Farsund

 27th. May Valøyne to Farsund  73 NM

Yesterday was another glorious day, weatherwise. We had another 6am start along with «Ingrid» from Melsomvik.

The wind was variable, sailing and or motoring likewise. The trip took 11,5 hours in all before We moored up in Farsund, one of our favourite harbours.

There were remarkably few sailing boats here, perhaps because the sailing season isn’t in full swing yet. The surroundings have changed radically since We first came her. There is a relatively new service building. Several new smal blocks of apartments are built around the Islands and a supermarket on the North side. Farsund maintains  it’s charm all the same.

We spent Sunday ashore, some hiking, some cycling in Caribean heat, making the most of the day and enjoying every moment.


John in Josin after leaving Egersund
Kvitsøy lighthouse and ancient beacon behind Jon Erik
Sheep with rapidly growing lambs
Evening at Valøyne, near Grimstad

 25th.May.   From Melsomvik to Valøyne East of Grimstad

Early start, 6 am and a long haul, 79,5 NM.  Insufficient wind for sailing but currents in the right direction giving up to 2 knots ekstra speed. Sunshine all day, anchoring along the Islands and time to enjoy a quick dip befare dinner.

 24th May  Åsgårdstrand to Melsomvik 19nm

Siller Lass motored  down the coast to meet friends in a Hallberg Rassy similar to ours. The fantastic sommer weather continues, calm and warm. This is the start of our summer cruise, destination not yet specified, but the route is roughly round the South coast of Norway to Stavanger, Bergen, Ålesund and Helgeland Islands. Skipper Jon Erik, crew Norma hope for fair winds, new moorings and contact with other sailors.

20th. April 2018

 On our first trip today, from home harbour to Engelsviken on the East side of Oslo Fjord. We intend to sail round the coast of Norway, northwards to Bodø this summer and are in the prosess of making sure that Siller Lass is «ship shape». 

The FOG over the fjord today gave us a good chance to test both radar, AIS, chart plotter etc.

Our inflateable dings is in for repair at Engelsviken Flåteservice now. 

The forecast for tomorrow is promising - sunshine and reasonable wind.


Created by Norma Saugen